| Panama is an adventure wonderland just waiting to | | | | Empire of South America and all of the wealth |
| be discovered. The country's expansive rainforests | | | | pillaged from Peru, Chile, and California flowed to |
| are among the richest and most complex on the | | | | Spain through Old Panama. It is no surprise that this |
| planet. It's the only country where jaguars and | | | | booty attracted pirates like Henry Morgan, who |
| pumas prowl just a short drive from the capital. Its | | | | looted the city in 1671. |
| vast, roadless jungles are home to over 940 | | | | During Morgan's attack, this original Panama City was |
| recorded bird species and 105 endangered species, | | | | burned to the ground. Two years later, in 1673, the |
| including the spectacled bear, the Central American | | | | capital was moved two miles to the west, and |
| tapir, the American crocodile, the scarlet macaw, as | | | | present-day Panama City was founded. This is the |
| well as several eagle species. | | | | area now known as Casco Viejo. |
| This small, untapped country offers some of the | | | | As the city was being rebuilt by the Spanish settlers, |
| finest diving, birdwatching, and deep-sea fishing in all | | | | they decided to build a massive surrounding wall and |
| of the Americas-yet only the most avid adventurers | | | | a stronger fortress for its protection and to ensure |
| are aware of it. Panama boasts scores of deserted | | | | that the enormous wealth in gold and silver that |
| palm-lined beaches, miles of lush rainforests, great | | | | passed through it would never again be susceptible |
| national parks, mysterious mangroves (where you'll | | | | to the likes of Henry Morgan. |
| feel like you've been transported back to a time | | | | The new city boasted a cross-sectioned design of 38 |
| when dinosaurs walked the earth), steamy cloud | | | | blocks, with three main streets running from east to |
| forests, mountains, waterfalls, raging rivers, | | | | west and seven streets running from north to south. |
| abandoned forts, as well as desert. | | | | Unfortunately, this urban development was |
| In Panama you can spend the morning diving in the | | | | interrupted by various fires that devastated its |
| Caribbean and the afternoon swimming in the Pacific. | | | | streets. In 1737, the "big fire" destroyed two thirds |
| You can explore historic ruins of the colonial era...dive | | | | of the city, and the "small fire" of 1756 destroyed |
| for Sir Francis Drake's lead coffin (supposedly buried | | | | more than 90 houses. These and other catastrophic |
| at sea near Portobello Bay)...see the rainforest in an | | | | fires help explain why so few true examples of |
| aerial tram...ride a dug-out canoe to a native Indian | | | | Spanish colonial architecture exist today. |
| village...discover the remote and mysterious forests | | | | The fortress still survives, though, and today houses |
| of the Darién region right on the border of | | | | several important, cultural, and historic buildings and |
| Colombia (where the roads end a few miles before | | | | monuments. But it is the architecture of Casco Viejo |
| the border, leaving you with the feeling you've | | | | that makes it so special. The old Spanish colonial style |
| reached the end of civilization)...come nose-to-nose | | | | is overlaid with French balconies and architecture, |
| with a red-napped tamarind monkey or a trio of | | | | remnants of the French inhabitants who made the |
| colorful toucans... | | | | initial attempt to build the Panama Canal in 1881. Over |
| Conde Nast Traveler, in an article from its February | | | | the years, a Caribbean influence also took hold and, |
| 2005 issue said "Panama has temperate rain forests, | | | | today, Casco Viejo is a melting pot of architectural |
| great surf and beaches, and more birdlife than any | | | | inspiration and style, with some buildings dating as far |
| other country in Central America. Now...it also has a | | | | back as 300 years. |
| newly elected administration that wants travelers to | | | | Museums, shopping, and fortune telling |
| enjoy every bit of it." | | | | Up until the early parts of this century, Casco Viejo |
| Fortunately, Panama is a small country. In a short | | | | remained a thriving cultural center. But as Panama |
| one- or two-week trip, you can see much of what | | | | City modernized, and as the automotive age made |
| this diverse country has to offer. | | | | transportation easier, it spread outward, leaving |
| In this special report, the IL team proposes a plan to | | | | Casco Viejo behind. The old city's narrow labyrinth |
| get the most out of 24 hours in Panama. From a | | | | streets were difficult for cars to maneuver and its |
| traditional Panamanian breakfast to a trip to the | | | | buildings were obsolete in comparison to modern |
| Miraflores Locks to evening drinks in a little boutique | | | | skyscrapers being built. By the mid 1900s, Casco |
| hotel overlooking the Bay of Panama...we have it all | | | | Viejo had gone the way of most city centers of that |
| thought out. | | | | century. No longer the center of Panama City, it was |
| Breakfast in El Trapiche | | | | too oppressed for the upper class and quickly |
| Exploring the best Panama has to offer is hungry | | | | became a poor area of tenement-style housing. |
| work. Start your day on a full stomach and head for | | | | The area is currently undergoing a complete |
| breakfast in El Trapiche, a busy diner in El Cangrejo | | | | transformation, however. Restaurants and bars are |
| (VÃa Argentina, tel. (507)269-4353). Here you | | | | opening with gusto, tourists are coming in growing |
| can enjoy breakfast Panama style and indulge in a | | | | numbers, and people from all over now want to |
| hearty feed of carimañol-a yummy roll made of | | | | make their homes in Casco Viejo. |
| mashed yucca and stuffed with ground beef and | | | | In 1997, UNESCO declared Casco Viejo a Patrimony |
| boiled eggs-and a side of corn tortillas, that more | | | | of Humanity. Today, it is revered as the historic |
| resemble silverdollar pancakes than taco shells. The bill | | | | center of Panama City. Two- and three-story houses |
| should be less than $8, even with that second | | | | with flower-adorned balconies overlook narrow |
| café con leche. | | | | streets. At its tip is French Park, where you will find |
| Trip to the Miraflores Locks | | | | the French Embassy and a monument to the hardy |
| No trip to Panama is complete without seeing the | | | | French builders who began the Panama Canal. On one |
| "Eighth Wonder of the World," the Panama Canal. | | | | side is an historical Spanish building called Las Bovedas, |
| According to the Panama Canal Authority "The | | | | now housing an art gallery and French restaurant. |
| history of the construction of the Panama Canal is | | | | Panama's Supreme Court was once housed here. A |
| the saga of human ingenuity and courage: years of | | | | walkway around the monument offers a nice view |
| sacrifice, crushing defeat, and final victory." This | | | | of the Amador Causeway, Bridge of the Americas, |
| statement, while true, doesn't go far enough to | | | | and Panama City's skyscraper skyline to the east. A |
| describe the mighty toll taken by the building of the | | | | plaque commemorates the firing of canon shots to |
| Panama Canal. Construction began in 1904 and took | | | | ward off a Colombian warship and solidify Panama's |
| 10 years to complete. It remains one of the greatest | | | | independence from Colombia in 1903. |
| engineering achievements of all time, completed | | | | There are excellent museums in the Casco Viejo |
| despite landslides, disease, setbacks, and the loss of | | | | area, including the Museo de Canal. Here, you can |
| 75,000 lives in total. Engineers directed most of the | | | | learn about Panama's history as the connector |
| actual construction, which cost $375 million, and | | | | between the Atlantic and the Pacific from |
| involved the excavation of 240 million cubic yards of | | | | pre-Hispanic to modern times. Next door is the |
| earth. | | | | Museum of National History and across the way is |
| The Canal, 51 miles long, opened to shipping in August | | | | the National Cathedral. Nearby is a small museum |
| 1914 and was formally dedicated on July 12, 1920. In | | | | dedicated to religious art, found in the old Santo |
| 1921, the U.S. paid Colombia $25 million as redress for | | | | Domingo monastery. This is where you will find the |
| the loss of Panama; in exchange, Colombia formally | | | | famous Flat Arch, which reportedly helped convince |
| recognized Panama's independence. | | | | engineers that Panama was earthquake-proof and a |
| On average it takes a vessel eight hours to travel | | | | geologically stable area for building the Canal. A few |
| from one ocean to the other, passing through three | | | | blocks away is the old San Jose Cathedral, with |
| sets of locks. The best place to see the Canal is | | | | gleaming spires inlaid with mother-of-pearl and its |
| from the Miraflores Locks (open 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., | | | | beautiful gold altar, intricately carved of wood and |
| admission free). Make sure to get to the Miraflores | | | | gilded with gold. This is a must-see when you visit |
| Locks for 9 a.m. as this is when you are most likely | | | | Casco Viejo. |
| to see large ships passing through. | | | | Casco Viejo is home to the Presidential House. If you |
| Tamales in Casco Viejo | | | | want to see this, be sure to come on a Sunday as it |
| By now you're probably feeling a tad peckish... Time | | | | is closed to the public for the rest of the week. |
| to hop on a bus or hail a taxi and make your way | | | | Famous sons and daughters of Panama also make |
| toward Casco Viejo for tamales. If you're in luck, | | | | their homes here, including actor/singer (and now |
| you'll bump into Luis Antonio Visuette on the streets | | | | Panama's minister of tourism) Ruben Blades, and |
| of Casco Viejo, where he has been selling delicious | | | | boxer Roberto Duran. |
| homemade tamales, wrapped in plaintain leaves, for | | | | Bargain hunters can take a break from the historical |
| more than 10 years. With his Yankee cap and | | | | sights at Salsipuedes, which roughly translates to "get |
| five-gallon bucket of hot and spicy tameles | | | | out if you can." Located just before the entrance to |
| calientitos, Luis is hard to miss. These lunchtime treats | | | | Casco Viejo, it is Panama's bizarre bazaar, a street so |
| are available in both large (50 cents), and small (25 | | | | narrow and filled with vendors that it is dark at noon. |
| cents), and are a real hit when washed down with an | | | | A few steps away is Santa Ana's Plaza, where you |
| ice-cold drink. International Living's local office is | | | | can have your fortune told for just $5. |
| located in the Casco Viejo area, in the Cathedral | | | | Dine at The Bristol |
| Plaza, next to the Panama Canal Museum and just in | | | | To finish off your day in style, make your way to |
| front of the stunning Metropolitan Cathedral, so if | | | | The Bristol Hotel, just a short taxi journey from |
| you want to enjoy your tamales in our office (Luis | | | | Casco Viejo. Dining at the Barandas Restaurant at |
| will be making the rounds) call in for a Panamanian | | | | The Bristol Hotel is an event to savor. The |
| style "power lunch." | | | | Panamanian-inspired gourmet cuisine, restful ambiance, |
| Explore Casco Viejo | | | | stunning presentation, elegant settings, and attentive |
| Located at the mouth of the Panama Canal, Casco | | | | service combine to create an unforgettable dining |
| Viejo is the oldest city on the Pacific Coast of the | | | | experience. |
| Americas...although it was there long before the Canal | | | | A Trip To Panama Caught Your Fancy? |
| was built. | | | | Hopefully, this special report has given you a few |
| In fairness to history, the original Panama City (now | | | | ideas on how to spend your time in Panama, but |
| known as Old Panama or Panama La Vieja) was | | | | don't forget that this amazing country has much |
| founded in 1519, about two miles from the center of | | | | more to offer. Pacific Coast beaches near the city; |
| Panama City as we know it today. From here, | | | | Coiba Island National Marine Park; and the |
| expeditions were mounted to conquer the Inca | | | | Darién Province to name just a few. |