Oaxaca to Puerto Escondido and other Pacific coastal destinations: The Drive

Travelers to the state of Oaxaca frequently				problems. At about four hours into the trip
inquire about the drive from the City of				you'll begin to hear tropical insect and bird
Oaxaca to Puerto Escondido and other coastal				sounds and calls, and see bananas and sugar
destinations, expressing concerns about the				cane under cultivation and for sale, with
length of the trip, quality of the highways,				coffee and honey also offered at roadside
and the overall advisability of driving				stands. On the approach to Pochutla the
versus flying or bussing. This essay speaks				roadway will then gradually straighten out,
to the doubts tourists might have regarding				with curves much easier to navigate.
the journey using their own or a rental				Tropical grasses predominate the roadside
vehicle.				landscapes. An indication that you're
				getting closer with be blown sand encroaching
We've driven the three main routes on a				part of the roadway, and finally a sign
number of occasions over the past several				stating "Iguana Hunting Prohibited." A short
years, at different times of the year. I've				while later you'll see the sign pointing to
written elsewhere about highway 190 to				the right for the Puerto Escondido bypass.
Huatulco. That road, the easiest to
navigate, takes you at least a couple of				Pochutla to Puerto Escondido: Takes about an
hours out of your way, south, and is				hour. Highway 175 ends at a "Y", so veer to
therefore not the most advisable unless of				the right and you're on highway 200,
course you plan to visit Salina Cruz or				following along the Pacific. However, you
Huatulco anyway. By contrast, highway 175				won't be able to see the ocean for about 40
through Pochutla, and then north on highway				minutes. You'll pass by the exit to Puerto
200 to Oaxaca, takes about 6 hours (I tend to				Ãngel, Mazunte and Zipolite. The entire
drive fast, and stop about 3 times during a				final leg of the trip is basically straight
trip) and is the most interesting and a				and flat. For the last half hour or so
relatively easy drive. Highway 131 is the				you'll see mango, papaya and coconut under
most direct and quickest route, albeit with				cultivation.
its downsides.
				ROUTE 131
I will provide details of the 175 route
driving to Puerto, and 131 by way of return				Aside from the fact that this route should be
route, in terms of what to expect regarding				quicker than 175, and is about 50 km shorter,
landscapes, towns and villages, and highway				there are other differences to note, in
characteristics. A schedule of times and				addition to similarities:
distances between particular towns appears as
an appendix, providing a quick-and-easy				1) While 175 is predominantly a single
summary of road conditions for each segment				ascent, and then descent, 131 consists of
of the journey. However, for this trip we				several hills and valleys which must be
stopped more than usual along 131, so keep in				negotiated, on a couple of occasions arriving
mind that without any lengthy stops it should				in a town at the bottom of a valley, and then
take about an hour less.				again beginning to climb. This may
				contribute to the roller-coaster effect on
PREMIMINARY ADVICE				your stomach.

Sixteen years of traveling these routes have				2) The road quality is inferior on 131,
been incident free, attributable in part to				in particular for about an hour in the
following four simple rules:				approach to San Gabriel Mixtepec and
				thereafter, with potholes, poor attempts to
1) Drive only during daytime. While the				repave, etc. However, until around the end
roads are paved and generally good, and in				of 2006 it was far worse. Now there are long
fact many of the bridges are freshly painted				stretches of fresh, new tar, and improvements
white, lighting is an issue. More				continue.
importantly, there's much more of a risk when
driving at night of encountering inebriated				3) Immediately upon leaving Puerto you
drivers and pedestrians, and animals.				begin an ascent, so there is no gradual
				departure from the tropical climate.
2) Start out with a full tank of gas.
While there are gas stations en route, and				4) Much of the vegetation found on 175
signs advertising mechanics and gasoline				is the same along 131, although it is less
along the roadways, by not having to make a				defined, in part because you do not climb to
stop to fill up, you have an opportunity to				same altitude as on 175, and there are really
make other stops along the way, more				no significant micro-climates which manifest
productive than stopping to simply top up.				in extremes of vegetation and particular
The trip to the coast takes well less than a				commercial enterprise. Waterfalls are
tank of gas.				abundant, and landscapes are impressive,
				perhaps less so than on the other highway.
3) While stating the obvious, make sure				There is much more livestock along the sides
you've had the mechanical fitness, and oil				of the roadway than on route 175,
and water levels of the car checked before				predominantly donkeys and mules, so be a bit
leaving. Brakes, tires and steering are the				more vigilant.
most important for negotiating the portions
of highway with mountain switchbacks.				Puerto Escondido to San Gabriel Mixtepec:
				Takes about an hour, with switchbacks and the
4) Regardless of time of year, take a				climb commencing almost immediately. Take
jacket, sweater or sweatshirt since you'll be				your meds as you leave the coast. As
climbing to about 9,000 feet on route 175.				suggested earlier, there are peaks and
If you tend to be susceptible to motion				valleys along this portion of the route. The
sickness, take along anti-nausea medication.				patchwork of road repairs becomes apparent
				rather readily. Roadside coconut stands
ROUTE 175				predominate initially. You'll then begin to
				welcome the maple essence, in fact off and on
Oaxaca to Ocotlan: Takes about 40 minutes,				for three or four hours as your journey
initially with urban sprawl out of the city,				continues. The village is quaint, with
and then gently rolling hills with a few				grocery stores, a major pharmacy and several
strong curves, vegetation predominantly agave				restaurants.
and corn under cultivation. Passes by the
villages producing black pottery (San Bartolo				San Gabriel Mixtepec to Cerro del Vidrio:
Coyotepec), alebrijes (San Martin Tilcajete),				This portion of the trip, just over an hour,
and cotton textiles (Santo Tomas Jalieza).				is a net incline, not without several ascents
In Ocotlan, noted for its Friday market,				and descents of mountain passes. At km 55
you'll find clay painted figures of the				you'll pass the exit to a well-known coffee
Aguilar sisters, the workshop of knife maker				plantation, Finca Las Nieves. Just before
Angel Aguilar, and tributes to artist Rodolfo				arriving at Cerro del Vidrio you'll start a
Morales...his home and foundation, mural at				gradual descent, arriving in the town after
the municipal offices, and museum featuring				about 10 minutes. This is where traffic
his and earlier works.				turns off to go to Juquila (about a 45 minute
				detour), famous for the appearance of the
Ocotlan to Ejutla: Takes about 25 minutes,				Virgin of Juquila. Cerro del Vidrio
with long easy straight-aways and occasional				developed much more rapidly once Oaxacans
curves and gentle hills. Once again agave				began making pilgrimages to Juquila. In fact
and some corn, with a number of outcrops of				along the entire 131 route you'll see
carriso (river reed used for making ceilings,				vehicles with gladioli tacked onto the front
roofs and fences). Known for its Thursday				on either side of the license plate, along
market, with sale of animal skins. You can				with a framed image of the virgin. Right at
easily avoid going into Ejutla by taking the				the turn-off you'll encounter several vendors
well-marked bypass.				of fruit and memelitas filled with beans.

Ejutla to Mihuatlan: Takes about 35 minutes,				Cerro del Vidrio to San Pedro Juchatengo:
with more pronounced curves and hills, and				Takes about 40 minutes, and terminates at the
easy-to-navigate peaks and valleys through				bottom of the largest valley you'll
similar vegetation and some mixed brush.				encounter. Switchbacks. Upon arrival you'll
Good idea to take your Dramamine or Gravol				begin to see corn under cultivation, as well
about 15 minutes into this portion of the				as some agave. The town boasts swimming in
trip. While there is no specific bypass,				El Rio de Las Flores, as well as an
it's not necessary to enter the main downtown				ecological preserve.
section of town. Just keep going straight
and the highway takes you out of the city.				San Pedro Juchatengo to Sola de Vega: You'll
				continue negotiating strong switchbacks,
Mihuatlan to San Jose del PacÃfico: Takes				initially following along the banks of the
about 50 minutes. Leaving Mihuatlan you'll				river, then deviating, and finally climbing
see the impressive mountain range in front of				until the pinnacle, "El Mirador," where a
you, which you quickly begin to climb.				small restaurant, rest stop and mezcal outlet
You'll note the temperature change quite				are situate. You will have already begun to
readily, as you witness the dramatic change				notice three different types of agave under
in vegetation. In addition to deciduous				cultivation, for mezcal production. You'll
trees including scrub oak, you'll see an				then descend to Sola de Vega, arriving after
abundance of conifers, mainly pine. The				about an hour and twenty minutes, now
agave changes from espadÃn under				encountering some corn, and even banana
cultivation, to very different and impressive				trees. Sola de Vega is noted for its mezcal,
wild varieties along the side of the road,				and historically for its occupation by the
growing from rock outcrops, some reaching an				French during colonial times.
immense size, with stock (chiote) shooting
up from its core dwarfing many of the				Sola de Vega to Oaxaca: This final leg of
surrounding trees. This segment of the trip,				the trip takes just under two hours,
and the next with descent to Pochutla, are				initially marked by climbing, albeit much
characterized predominantly by significant				easier to navigate, and then again peaks and
mountain switchbacks. You'll see roadside				valleys, much softer than during the first
eateries, booths with alebrijes for sale, and				couple of hours of the return route. At km
small cottage-industry lumber and firewood				181 you'll see the cutoff to San SebastiÃ¡n
producers. San Jose del PacÃfico is noted				de Las Grutas, 13 km off to the left, where
for the sale of locally harvested				there are a series of caves you can hike. By
hallucinogenic mushrooms, in particular				km 190 the road will have straightened out,
during the rainy season, and therefore you'll				and for the balance of the trip, another 60
come across roadside workshops selling				kilometers, there will be rolling
hand-made wooden mushrooms as well as other				straight-aways, the agave fields diminishing
hand-crafted products. You can rent a cabin				in number as corn becomes the predominate
if you wish to break up the trip and spend				crop, with outcrops of carriso, some cactus
the night. Clean accommodations, with				under cultivation, and roadside stands
private bath, start at about 300 pesos.				selling sugar cane. By now the temperature
There's well-marked signage alongside the				will have risen and stabilized at typical
highway. Some are more modern and advertise				Oaxaca valley climate. Your approach to the
satellite TV and other facilities. There are				city will be marked by the same urban sprawl
a few restaurants, grocery stores, bakery,				as when you left.
etc. It's a relaxing way to spend a few
hours, perhaps hiking up the dirt roads where				CONCLUSION
most residents tend to live.
				I highly recommend driving these routes.
San Jose del PacÃfico to Pochutla: You'll				Consider taking an extra day so you can stop
continue to climb for about another 10				at some of the sites and villages, perhaps at
minutes until you reach El Manzanal, then				a couple of mezcal operations, or just to get
begin the descent. This portion of the trip				out of the car and take a stroll. Spending
takes about two hours and 25 minutes. The				one overnight will help you to get a feel for
ride down is initially quite gradual, and				rural Oaxaca, and add immeasurably to the
then more pronounced once you reach San				totality of your vacation. San Jose del
Miguel Suchixtepec, a picturesque village				PacÃfico gets my vote since it's seemingly
with large impressive church, and homes				a bit more geared to ecotourism than the
strung out along a few hilly mountain roads.				other towns and villages en route, although
You'll begin to detect another significant				there are other quaint, interesting
temperature change, depending on the facing				stopovers, where tourists don't normally stop
of the portion of mountain you are descending				for the night, which might lead to even a
relative to the sun. At different portions				more interesting sojourn. .
of the stretch you'll pass by a couple of
waterfalls and three or four smaller rivulets				APPENDIX
spilling across the highway, goats and
donkeys, home construction of wood, pine				ROUTE 175
cones on the roadway, brilliant orange
flowered bromeliads, wild orchids, large				Oaxaca to OctotlÃ¡n, 40 min and 33 km;
expanses of boston-like ferns, and perhaps				OcotlÃ¡n to Ejutla, 25 min and 25 km;
one or two patches of fog. For several
kilometers you'll encounter a sweet smell				Ejutla to MihuatlÃ¡n, 38 min and 40 km;
similar to that of maple syrup. Because of				MihuatlÃ¡n to San Jose del PacÃfico, 50
the steep descent, you may even detect the				min and 36 km; San Jose del PacÃfico to
smell of burning rubber, but don't worry,				Pochutla, 145 min and 100 km; Pochutla to
it's likely a truck up ahead having brake				Puerto Escondido, 55 min and 69 km.

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Oaxaca to Puerto Escondido and other Pacific coastal destinations: The Drive