| Travelers to the state of Oaxaca | | | | even detect the smell of burning rubber, |
| frequently inquire about the drive from | | | | but don't worry, it's likely a truck up |
| the City of Oaxaca to Puerto Escondido | | | | ahead having brake problems. At about |
| and other coastal destinations, | | | | four hours into the trip you'll begin to |
| expressing concerns about the length of | | | | hear tropical insect and bird sounds and |
| the trip, quality of the highways, and | | | | calls, and see bananas and sugar cane |
| the overall advisability of driving | | | | under cultivation and for sale, with |
| versus flying or bussing. This essay | | | | coffee and honey also offered at |
| speaks to the doubts tourists might have | | | | roadside stands. On the approach to |
| regarding the journey using their own or | | | | Pochutla the roadway will then gradually |
| a rental vehicle. | | | | straighten out, with curves much easier |
| We've driven the three main routes on a | | | | to navigate. Tropical grasses |
| number of occasions over the past | | | | predominate the roadside landscapes. An |
| several years, at different times of the | | | | indication that you're getting closer |
| year. I've written elsewhere about | | | | with be blown sand encroaching part of |
| highway 190 to Huatulco. That road, the | | | | the roadway, and finally a sign stating |
| easiest to navigate, takes you at least | | | | "Iguana Hunting Prohibited." A short |
| a couple of hours out of your way, | | | | while later you'll see the sign pointing |
| south, and is therefore not the most | | | | to the right for the Puerto Escondido |
| advisable unless of course you plan to | | | | bypass. |
| visit Salina Cruz or Huatulco anyway. By | | | | Pochutla to Puerto Escondido: Takes |
| contrast, highway 175 through Pochutla, | | | | about an hour. Highway 175 ends at a |
| and then north on highway 200 to Oaxaca, | | | | "Y", so veer to the right and you're on |
| takes about 6 hours (I tend to drive | | | | highway 200, following along the |
| fast, and stop about 3 times during a | | | | Pacific. However, you won't be able to |
| trip) and is the most interesting and a | | | | see the ocean for about 40 minutes. |
| relatively easy drive. Highway 131 is | | | | You'll pass by the exit to Puerto |
| the most direct and quickest route, | | | | Ángel, Mazunte and Zipolite. The |
| albeit with its downsides. | | | | entire final leg of the trip is |
| I will provide details of the 175 route | | | | basically straight and flat. For the |
| driving to Puerto, and 131 by way of | | | | last half hour or so you'll see mango, |
| return route, in terms of what to expect | | | | papaya and coconut under cultivation. |
| regarding landscapes, towns and | | | | ROUTE 131 |
| villages, and highway characteristics. | | | | Aside from the fact that this route |
| A schedule of times and distances | | | | should be quicker than 175, and is about |
| between particular towns appears as an | | | | 50 km shorter, there are other |
| appendix, providing a quick-and-easy | | | | differences to note, in addition to |
| summary of road conditions for each | | | | similarities: |
| segment of the journey. However, for | | | | 1) While 175 is predominantly a |
| this trip we stopped more than usual | | | | single ascent, and then descent, 131 |
| along 131, so keep in mind that without | | | | consists of several hills and valleys |
| any lengthy stops it should take about | | | | which must be negotiated, on a couple of |
| an hour less. | | | | occasions arriving in a town at the |
| PREMIMINARY ADVICE | | | | bottom of a valley, and then again |
| Sixteen years of traveling these routes | | | | beginning to climb. This may contribute |
| have been incident free, attributable in | | | | to the roller-coaster effect on your |
| part to following four simple rules: | | | | stomach. |
| 1) Drive only during daytime. | | | | 2) The road quality is inferior on |
| While the roads are paved and generally | | | | 131, in particular for about an hour in |
| good, and in fact many of the bridges | | | | the approach to San Gabriel Mixtepec and |
| are freshly painted white, lighting is | | | | thereafter, with potholes, poor attempts |
| an issue. More importantly, there's | | | | to repave, etc. However, until around |
| much more of a risk when driving at | | | | the end of 2006 it was far worse. Now |
| night of encountering inebriated drivers | | | | there are long stretches of fresh, new |
| and pedestrians, and animals. | | | | tar, and improvements continue. |
| 2) Start out with a full tank of | | | | 3) Immediately upon leaving Puerto |
| gas. While there are gas stations en | | | | you begin an ascent, so there is no |
| route, and signs advertising mechanics | | | | gradual departure from the tropical |
| and gasoline along the roadways, by not | | | | climate. |
| having to make a stop to fill up, you | | | | 4) Much of the vegetation found on |
| have an opportunity to make other stops | | | | 175 is the same along 131, although it |
| along the way, more productive than | | | | is less defined, in part because you do |
| stopping to simply top up. The trip to | | | | not climb to same altitude as on 175, |
| the coast takes well less than a tank of | | | | and there are really no significant |
| gas. | | | | micro-climates which manifest in |
| 3) While stating the obvious, make | | | | extremes of vegetation and particular |
| sure you've had the mechanical fitness, | | | | commercial enterprise. Waterfalls are |
| and oil and water levels of the car | | | | abundant, and landscapes are impressive, |
| checked before leaving. Brakes, tires | | | | perhaps less so than on the other |
| and steering are the most important for | | | | highway. There is much more livestock |
| negotiating the portions of highway with | | | | along the sides of the roadway than on |
| mountain switchbacks. | | | | route 175, predominantly donkeys and |
| 4) Regardless of time of year, take | | | | mules, so be a bit more vigilant. |
| a jacket, sweater or sweatshirt since | | | | Puerto Escondido to San Gabriel |
| you'll be climbing to about 9,000 feet | | | | Mixtepec: Takes about an hour, with |
| on route 175. If you tend to be | | | | switchbacks and the climb commencing |
| susceptible to motion sickness, take | | | | almost immediately. Take your meds as |
| along anti-nausea medication. | | | | you leave the coast. As suggested |
| ROUTE 175 | | | | earlier, there are peaks and valleys |
| Oaxaca to Ocotlan: Takes about 40 | | | | along this portion of the route. The |
| minutes, initially with urban sprawl out | | | | patchwork of road repairs becomes |
| of the city, and then gently rolling | | | | apparent rather readily. Roadside |
| hills with a few strong curves, | | | | coconut stands predominate initially. |
| vegetation predominantly agave and corn | | | | You'll then begin to welcome the maple |
| under cultivation. Passes by the | | | | essence, in fact off and on for three or |
| villages producing black pottery (San | | | | four hours as your journey continues. |
| Bartolo Coyotepec), alebrijes (San | | | | The village is quaint, with grocery |
| Martin Tilcajete), and cotton textiles | | | | stores, a major pharmacy and several |
| (Santo Tomas Jalieza). In Ocotlan, | | | | restaurants. |
| noted for its Friday market, you'll find | | | | San Gabriel Mixtepec to Cerro del |
| clay painted figures of the Aguilar | | | | Vidrio: This portion of the trip, just |
| sisters, the workshop of knife maker | | | | over an hour, is a net incline, not |
| Angel Aguilar, and tributes to artist | | | | without several ascents and descents of |
| Rodolfo Morales...his home and | | | | mountain passes. At km 55 you'll pass |
| foundation, mural at the municipal | | | | the exit to a well-known coffee |
| offices, and museum featuring his and | | | | plantation, Finca Las Nieves. Just |
| earlier works. | | | | before arriving at Cerro del Vidrio |
| Ocotlan to Ejutla: Takes about 25 | | | | you'll start a gradual descent, arriving |
| minutes, with long easy straight-aways | | | | in the town after about 10 minutes. |
| and occasional curves and gentle hills. | | | | This is where traffic turns off to go to |
| Once again agave and some corn, with a | | | | Juquila (about a 45 minute detour), |
| number of outcrops of carriso (river | | | | famous for the appearance of the Virgin |
| reed used for making ceilings, roofs and | | | | of Juquila. Cerro del Vidrio developed |
| fences). Known for its Thursday market, | | | | much more rapidly once Oaxacans began |
| with sale of animal skins. You can | | | | making pilgrimages to Juquila. In fact |
| easily avoid going into Ejutla by taking | | | | along the entire 131 route you'll see |
| the well-marked bypass. | | | | vehicles with gladioli tacked onto the |
| Ejutla to Mihuatlan: Takes about 35 | | | | front on either side of the license |
| minutes, with more pronounced curves and | | | | plate, along with a framed image of the |
| hills, and easy-to-navigate peaks and | | | | virgin. Right at the turn-off you'll |
| valleys through similar vegetation and | | | | encounter several vendors of fruit and |
| some mixed brush. Good idea to take | | | | memelitas filled with beans. |
| your Dramamine or Gravol about 15 | | | | Cerro del Vidrio to San Pedro |
| minutes into this portion of the trip. | | | | Juchatengo: Takes about 40 minutes, |
| While there is no specific bypass, it's | | | | and terminates at the bottom of the |
| not necessary to enter the main downtown | | | | largest valley you'll encounter. |
| section of town. Just keep going | | | | Switchbacks. Upon arrival you'll begin |
| straight and the highway takes you out | | | | to see corn under cultivation, as well |
| of the city. | | | | as some agave. The town boasts swimming |
| Mihuatlan to San Jose del Pacífico: | | | | in El Rio de Las Flores, as well as an |
| Takes about 50 minutes. Leaving | | | | ecological preserve. |
| Mihuatlan you'll see the impressive | | | | San Pedro Juchatengo to Sola de Vega: |
| mountain range in front of you, which | | | | You'll continue negotiating strong |
| you quickly begin to climb. You'll note | | | | switchbacks, initially following along |
| the temperature change quite readily, as | | | | the banks of the river, then deviating, |
| you witness the dramatic change in | | | | and finally climbing until the pinnacle, |
| vegetation. In addition to deciduous | | | | "El Mirador," where a small restaurant, |
| trees including scrub oak, you'll see an | | | | rest stop and mezcal outlet are situate. |
| abundance of conifers, mainly pine. The | | | | You will have already begun to notice |
| agave changes from espadín under | | | | three different types of agave under |
| cultivation, to very different and | | | | cultivation, for mezcal production. |
| impressive wild varieties along the side | | | | You'll then descend to Sola de Vega, |
| of the road, growing from rock outcrops, | | | | arriving after about an hour and twenty |
| some reaching an immense size, with | | | | minutes, now encountering some corn, and |
| stock (chiote) shooting up from its core | | | | even banana trees. Sola de Vega is noted |
| dwarfing many of the surrounding trees. | | | | for its mezcal, and historically for its |
| This segment of the trip, and the next | | | | occupation by the French during colonial |
| with descent to Pochutla, are | | | | times. |
| characterized predominantly by | | | | Sola de Vega to Oaxaca: This final leg |
| significant mountain switchbacks. | | | | of the trip takes just under two hours, |
| You'll see roadside eateries, booths | | | | initially marked by climbing, albeit |
| with alebrijes for sale, and small | | | | much easier to navigate, and then again |
| cottage-industry lumber and firewood | | | | peaks and valleys, much softer than |
| producers. San Jose del Pacífico is | | | | during the first couple of hours of the |
| noted for the sale of locally harvested | | | | return route. At km 181 you'll see the |
| hallucinogenic mushrooms, in particular | | | | cutoff to San Sebastián de Las Grutas, |
| during the rainy season, and therefore | | | | 13 km off to the left, where there are a |
| you'll come across roadside workshops | | | | series of caves you can hike. By km 190 |
| selling hand-made wooden mushrooms as | | | | the road will have straightened out, and |
| well as other hand-crafted products. | | | | for the balance of the trip, another 60 |
| You can rent a cabin if you wish to | | | | kilometers, there will be rolling |
| break up the trip and spend the night. | | | | straight-aways, the agave fields |
| Clean accommodations, with private bath, | | | | diminishing in number as corn becomes |
| start at about 300 pesos. There's | | | | the predominate crop, with outcrops of |
| well-marked signage alongside the | | | | carriso, some cactus under cultivation, |
| highway. Some are more modern and | | | | and roadside stands selling sugar cane. |
| advertise satellite TV and other | | | | By now the temperature will have risen |
| facilities. There are a few | | | | and stabilized at typical Oaxaca valley |
| restaurants, grocery stores, bakery, | | | | climate. Your approach to the city will |
| etc. It's a relaxing way to spend a few | | | | be marked by the same urban sprawl as |
| hours, perhaps hiking up the dirt roads | | | | when you left. |
| where most residents tend to live. | | | | CONCLUSION |
| San Jose del Pacífico to Pochutla: | | | | I highly recommend driving these routes. |
| You'll continue to climb for about | | | | Consider taking an extra day so you can |
| another 10 minutes until you reach El | | | | stop at some of the sites and villages, |
| Manzanal, then begin the descent. This | | | | perhaps at a couple of mezcal |
| portion of the trip takes about two | | | | operations, or just to get out of the |
| hours and 25 minutes. The ride down is | | | | car and take a stroll. Spending one |
| initially quite gradual, and then more | | | | overnight will help you to get a feel |
| pronounced once you reach San Miguel | | | | for rural Oaxaca, and add immeasurably |
| Suchixtepec, a picturesque village with | | | | to the totality of your vacation. San |
| large impressive church, and homes | | | | Jose del Pacífico gets my vote since |
| strung out along a few hilly mountain | | | | it's seemingly a bit more geared to |
| roads. You'll begin to detect another | | | | ecotourism than the other towns and |
| significant temperature change, | | | | villages en route, although there are |
| depending on the facing of the portion | | | | other quaint, interesting stopovers, |
| of mountain you are descending relative | | | | where tourists don't normally stop for |
| to the sun. At different portions of | | | | the night, which might lead to even a |
| the stretch you'll pass by a couple of | | | | more interesting sojourn. . |
| waterfalls and three or four smaller | | | | APPENDIX |
| rivulets spilling across the highway, | | | | ROUTE 175 |
| goats and donkeys, home construction of | | | | Oaxaca to Octotlán, 40 min and 33 km; |
| wood, pine cones on the roadway, | | | | Ocotlán to Ejutla, 25 min and 25 km; |
| brilliant orange flowered bromeliads, | | | | Ejutla to Mihuatlán, 38 min and 40 km; |
| wild orchids, large expanses of | | | | Mihuatlán to San Jose del Pacífico, |
| boston-like ferns, and perhaps one or | | | | 50 min and 36 km; San Jose del |
| two patches of fog. For several | | | | Pacífico to Pochutla, 145 min and 100 |
| kilometers you'll encounter a sweet | | | | km; Pochutla to Puerto Escondido, 55 |
| smell similar to that of maple syrup. | | | | min and 69 km. |
| Because of the steep descent, you may | | | | |