Oaxaca to Puerto Escondido and other Pacific coastal destinations: The Drive

Travelers to the state of Oaxaca frequently inquireit's likely a truck up ahead having brake problems. At
about the drive from the City of Oaxaca to Puertoabout four hours into the trip you'll begin to hear
Escondido and other coastal destinations, expressingtropical insect and bird sounds and calls, and see
concerns about the length of the trip, quality of thebananas and sugar cane under cultivation and for sale,
highways, and the overall advisability of driving versuswith coffee and honey also offered at roadside
flying or bussing. This essay speaks to the doubtsstands. On the approach to Pochutla the roadway will
tourists might have regarding the journey using theirthen gradually straighten out, with curves much
own or a rental vehicle.easier to navigate. Tropical grasses predominate the
We've driven the three main routes on a number ofroadside landscapes. An indication that you're getting
occasions over the past several years, at differentcloser with be blown sand encroaching part of the
times of the year. I've written elsewhere aboutroadway, and finally a sign stating "Iguana Hunting
highway 190 to Huatulco. That road, the easiest toProhibited." A short while later you'll see the sign
navigate, takes you at least a couple of hours out ofpointing to the right for the Puerto Escondido bypass.
your way, south, and is therefore not the mostPochutla to Puerto Escondido: Takes about an hour.
advisable unless of course you plan to visit SalinaHighway 175 ends at a "Y", so veer to the right and
Cruz or Huatulco anyway. By contrast, highway 175you're on highway 200, following along the Pacific.
through Pochutla, and then north on highway 200 toHowever, you won't be able to see the ocean for
Oaxaca, takes about 6 hours (I tend to drive fast,about 40 minutes. You'll pass by the exit to Puerto
and stop about 3 times during a trip) and is the mostÁngel, Mazunte and Zipolite. The entire final leg
interesting and a relatively easy drive. Highway 131 isof the trip is basically straight and flat. For the last
the most direct and quickest route, albeit with itshalf hour or so you'll see mango, papaya and coconut
downsides.under cultivation.
I will provide details of the 175 route driving toROUTE 131
Puerto, and 131 by way of return route, in terms ofAside from the fact that this route should be quicker
what to expect regarding landscapes, towns andthan 175, and is about 50 km shorter, there are other
villages, and highway characteristics. A schedule ofdifferences to note, in addition to similarities:
times and distances between particular towns1) While 175 is predominantly a single ascent, and
appears as an appendix, providing a quick-and-easythen descent, 131 consists of several hills and valleys
summary of road conditions for each segment of thewhich must be negotiated, on a couple of occasions
journey. However, for this trip we stopped morearriving in a town at the bottom of a valley, and then
than usual along 131, so keep in mind that withoutagain beginning to climb. This may contribute to the
any lengthy stops it should take about an hour less.roller-coaster effect on your stomach.
PREMIMINARY ADVICE2) The road quality is inferior on 131, in particular for
Sixteen years of traveling these routes have beenabout an hour in the approach to San Gabriel
incident free, attributable in part to following fourMixtepec and thereafter, with potholes, poor
simple rules:attempts to repave, etc. However, until around the
1) Drive only during daytime. While the roads areend of 2006 it was far worse. Now there are long
paved and generally good, and in fact many of thestretches of fresh, new tar, and improvements
bridges are freshly painted white, lighting is an issue.continue.
More importantly, there's much more of a risk when3) Immediately upon leaving Puerto you begin an
driving at night of encountering inebriated drivers andascent, so there is no gradual departure from the
pedestrians, and animals.tropical climate.
2) Start out with a full tank of gas. While there are4) Much of the vegetation found on 175 is the same
gas stations en route, and signs advertisingalong 131, although it is less defined, in part because
mechanics and gasoline along the roadways, by notyou do not climb to same altitude as on 175, and
having to make a stop to fill up, you have anthere are really no significant micro-climates which
opportunity to make other stops along the way,manifest in extremes of vegetation and particular
more productive than stopping to simply top up. Thecommercial enterprise. Waterfalls are abundant, and
trip to the coast takes well less than a tank of gas.landscapes are impressive, perhaps less so than on
3) While stating the obvious, make sure you've hadthe other highway. There is much more livestock
the mechanical fitness, and oil and water levels of thealong the sides of the roadway than on route 175,
car checked before leaving. Brakes, tires and steeringpredominantly donkeys and mules, so be a bit more
are the most important for negotiating the portionsvigilant.
of highway with mountain switchbacks.Puerto Escondido to San Gabriel Mixtepec: Takes
4) Regardless of time of year, take a jacket,about an hour, with switchbacks and the climb
sweater or sweatshirt since you'll be climbing tocommencing almost immediately. Take your meds as
about 9,000 feet on route 175. If you tend to beyou leave the coast. As suggested earlier, there are
susceptible to motion sickness, take along anti-nauseapeaks and valleys along this portion of the route. The
medication.patchwork of road repairs becomes apparent rather
ROUTE 175readily. Roadside coconut stands predominate initially.
Oaxaca to Ocotlan: Takes about 40 minutes, initiallyYou'll then begin to welcome the maple essence, in
with urban sprawl out of the city, and then gentlyfact off and on for three or four hours as your
rolling hills with a few strong curves, vegetationjourney continues. The village is quaint, with grocery
predominantly agave and corn under cultivation.stores, a major pharmacy and several restaurants.
Passes by the villages producing black pottery (SanSan Gabriel Mixtepec to Cerro del Vidrio: This portion
Bartolo Coyotepec), alebrijes (San Martin Tilcajete),of the trip, just over an hour, is a net incline, not
and cotton textiles (Santo Tomas Jalieza). In Ocotlan,without several ascents and descents of mountain
noted for its Friday market, you'll find clay paintedpasses. At km 55 you'll pass the exit to a well-known
figures of the Aguilar sisters, the workshop of knifecoffee plantation, Finca Las Nieves. Just before
maker Angel Aguilar, and tributes to artist Rodolfoarriving at Cerro del Vidrio you'll start a gradual
Morales...his home and foundation, mural at thedescent, arriving in the town after about 10 minutes.
municipal offices, and museum featuring his and earlierThis is where traffic turns off to go to Juquila (about
works.a 45 minute detour), famous for the appearance of
Ocotlan to Ejutla: Takes about 25 minutes, with longthe Virgin of Juquila. Cerro del Vidrio developed much
easy straight-aways and occasional curves and gentlemore rapidly once Oaxacans began making
hills. Once again agave and some corn, with a numberpilgrimages to Juquila. In fact along the entire 131
of outcrops of carriso (river reed used for makingroute you'll see vehicles with gladioli tacked onto the
ceilings, roofs and fences). Known for its Thursdayfront on either side of the license plate, along with a
market, with sale of animal skins. You can easily avoidframed image of the virgin. Right at the turn-off you'll
going into Ejutla by taking the well-marked bypass.encounter several vendors of fruit and memelitas
Ejutla to Mihuatlan: Takes about 35 minutes, withfilled with beans.
more pronounced curves and hills, andCerro del Vidrio to San Pedro Juchatengo: Takes
easy-to-navigate peaks and valleys through similarabout 40 minutes, and terminates at the bottom of
vegetation and some mixed brush. Good idea to takethe largest valley you'll encounter. Switchbacks. Upon
your Dramamine or Gravol about 15 minutes into thisarrival you'll begin to see corn under cultivation, as
portion of the trip. While there is no specific bypass,well as some agave. The town boasts swimming in El
it's not necessary to enter the main downtownRio de Las Flores, as well as an ecological preserve.
section of town. Just keep going straight and theSan Pedro Juchatengo to Sola de Vega: You'll
highway takes you out of the city.continue negotiating strong switchbacks, initially
Mihuatlan to San Jose del Pacífico: Takes aboutfollowing along the banks of the river, then deviating,
50 minutes. Leaving Mihuatlan you'll see the impressiveand finally climbing until the pinnacle, "El Mirador,"
mountain range in front of you, which you quicklywhere a small restaurant, rest stop and mezcal outlet
begin to climb. You'll note the temperature changeare situate. You will have already begun to notice
quite readily, as you witness the dramatic change inthree different types of agave under cultivation, for
vegetation. In addition to deciduous trees includingmezcal production. You'll then descend to Sola de
scrub oak, you'll see an abundance of conifers, mainlyVega, arriving after about an hour and twenty
pine. The agave changes from espadín underminutes, now encountering some corn, and even
cultivation, to very different and impressive wildbanana trees. Sola de Vega is noted for its mezcal,
varieties along the side of the road, growing fromand historically for its occupation by the French during
rock outcrops, some reaching an immense size, withcolonial times.
stock (chiote) shooting up from its core dwarfingSola de Vega to Oaxaca: This final leg of the trip
many of the surrounding trees. This segment of thetakes just under two hours, initially marked by
trip, and the next with descent to Pochutla, areclimbing, albeit much easier to navigate, and then
characterized predominantly by significant mountainagain peaks and valleys, much softer than during the
switchbacks. You'll see roadside eateries, booths withfirst couple of hours of the return route. At km 181
alebrijes for sale, and small cottage-industry lumberyou'll see the cutoff to San Sebastián de Las
and firewood producers. San Jose del Pacífico isGrutas, 13 km off to the left, where there are a
noted for the sale of locally harvested hallucinogenicseries of caves you can hike. By km 190 the road will
mushrooms, in particular during the rainy season, andhave straightened out, and for the balance of the
therefore you'll come across roadside workshopstrip, another 60 kilometers, there will be rolling
selling hand-made wooden mushrooms as well asstraight-aways, the agave fields diminishing in number
other hand-crafted products. You can rent a cabin ifas corn becomes the predominate crop, with
you wish to break up the trip and spend the night.outcrops of carriso, some cactus under cultivation,
Clean accommodations, with private bath, start atand roadside stands selling sugar cane. By now the
about 300 pesos. There's well-marked signagetemperature will have risen and stabilized at typical
alongside the highway. Some are more modern andOaxaca valley climate. Your approach to the city will
advertise satellite TV and other facilities. There are abe marked by the same urban sprawl as when you
few restaurants, grocery stores, bakery, etc. It's aleft.
relaxing way to spend a few hours, perhaps hiking upCONCLUSION
the dirt roads where most residents tend to live.I highly recommend driving these routes. Consider
San Jose del Pacífico to Pochutla: You'll continuetaking an extra day so you can stop at some of the
to climb for about another 10 minutes until you reachsites and villages, perhaps at a couple of mezcal
El Manzanal, then begin the descent. This portion ofoperations, or just to get out of the car and take a
the trip takes about two hours and 25 minutes. Thestroll. Spending one overnight will help you to get a
ride down is initially quite gradual, and then morefeel for rural Oaxaca, and add immeasurably to the
pronounced once you reach San Miguel Suchixtepec,totality of your vacation. San Jose del Pacífico
a picturesque village with large impressive church, andgets my vote since it's seemingly a bit more geared
homes strung out along a few hilly mountain roads.to ecotourism than the other towns and villages en
You'll begin to detect another significant temperatureroute, although there are other quaint, interesting
change, depending on the facing of the portion ofstopovers, where tourists don't normally stop for the
mountain you are descending relative to the sun. Atnight, which might lead to even a more interesting
different portions of the stretch you'll pass by asojourn. .
couple of waterfalls and three or four smaller rivuletsAPPENDIX
spilling across the highway, goats and donkeys, homeROUTE 175
construction of wood, pine cones on the roadway,Oaxaca to Octotlán, 40 min and 33 km;
brilliant orange flowered bromeliads, wild orchids, largeOcotlán to Ejutla, 25 min and 25 km;
expanses of boston-like ferns, and perhaps one orEjutla to Mihuatlán, 38 min and 40 km;
two patches of fog. For several kilometers you'llMihuatlán to San Jose del Pacífico, 50 min
encounter a sweet smell similar to that of mapleand 36 km; San Jose del Pacífico to Pochutla,
syrup. Because of the steep descent, you may even145 min and 100 km; Pochutla to Puerto Escondido,
detect the smell of burning rubber, but don't worry,55 min and 69 km.